Philipp Franck M.D.

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5 Expert Tips to Treat Melasma: Those Stubborn Brown Spots

Let’s turn our spotlight on Melasma this week. Melasma is a common skin condition characterized by brown or gray-brown patches on the face, particularly on the cheeks, forehead, nose, and upper lip. Melasma has many causes, such as medications, stress, pregnancy, sun exposure, or as a symptom of an underlying medical condition. While Melasma itself is not a serious medical condition, it can be distressing and affect one's self-esteem. Fortunately, there are several treatment options available to manage and even reduce the appearance of melasma. In this blog, we'll explore five tips to help you effectively treat melasma and achieve a more even skin tone.


1.Sun Protection Is Key

Sun exposure is one of the primary triggers for melasma. Ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun can stimulate the melanocytes (pigment-producing cells) in the skin, leading to the development of melasma patches. To prevent melasma from worsening and to help it fade, strict sun protection is essential. Here's what you can do:

  • Use Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen: Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 daily, even on cloudy days. Reapply every two hours, especially when outdoors. Look for a sunscreen that also offers protection against UVA and UVB rays.

  • Wear Protective Clothing: Wide-brimmed hats, sunglasses, and long sleeves can shield your skin from direct sunlight.

  • Seek Shade: Limit your sun exposure during peak UV hours, typically from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.


2. Topical Treatments

There are several topical treatments available that can help improve the appearance of melasma:

  • Hydroquinone: Hydroquinone is a commonly used skin-lightening agent that can be effective in reducing melasma. It works by inhibiting the production of melanin in the skin. However, it should be used under the guidance of a experienced physician due to potential side effects.

  • Retinoids: Retinoids like tretinoin can help improve skin texture and fade melasma. They work by promoting skin cell turnover and exfoliation. Again, these should be used under professional supervision.

  • Kojic Acid, Arbutin, and Vitamin C: These ingredients are known for their skin-brightening properties and can be found in over-the-counter products. While they may be less potent than prescription options, they can still be effective.


3. Chemical Peels

Chemical peels performed by dermatologists or licensed skincare professionals can help treat melasma. These peels use acids like glycolic acid, salicylic acid, or a combination of acids to exfoliate the top layer of the skin, encouraging the growth of new, evenly pigmented skin cells. Multiple sessions may be required, and it's crucial to follow post-peel skincare instructions carefully to minimize the risk of complications.


4. Laser Therapy

Laser therapy, such as fractional laser or intense pulsed light (IPL), can target melasma and break down excess melanin. These treatments work by delivering controlled light energy to the affected areas. Laser therapy can be highly effective, but it should be performed by experienced professionals, as improper use can worsen melasma or lead to side effects.


5. Maintenance and Patience

Treating melasma often requires patience and consistent effort. Once you've achieved the desired results, it's crucial to maintain your skincare routine and sun protection habits to prevent melasma from recurring. Regular follow-up visits to your dermatologist can help monitor your progress and adjust treatment as needed.


Melasma can be a challenging condition to treat, but with the right combination of sun protection, topical treatments, professional interventions, and patience, you can effectively manage and reduce its appearance. While it remains a challenging condition to treat new medications are on the horizon with possible promising results. Tranexamic acid has recently been found to improve the appearance when taken orally. However, until we got more reliable and substantiated data we will have to remain patient. Remember that every individual's skin is unique, so what works for one person may not work for another. Consult with an experienced plastic surgeon or dermatologist to create a personalized treatment plan tailored to your specific needs and skin type. With dedication and the right guidance, you can achieve a more even and radiant complexion.


For further reading:

The American Association of Dermatology has recently published an article including a video that will provide additional information. The AAD offers a lot of additional information on their website on how to treat your skin, hair, and nails.

  • https://www.aad.org/public/diseases/a-z/melasma-self-care

  • Victor, Frank C., Jeremy Gelber, and Babar Rao. "Melasma: a review." Journal of Cutaneous Medicine and Surgery: Incorporating Medical and Surgical Dermatology 8 (2004): 97-102.

  • Jiang, J., et al. "The effect of melasma on self-esteem: A pilot study." International journal of women's dermatology 4.1 (2018): 38-42.

  • Wang, Jordan V., Nikita Jhawar, and Nazanin Saedi. "Tranexamic acid for melasma: evaluating the various formulations." The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology 12.8 (2019): E73.